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Little man meets big trees: Exploring the alien world of Sequoia National Park

By David W. Shelton | June 1, 2007 |

Clarksville Online Across America: While visiting central California, CO Co-Editor David W. Shelton was told that Sequoia National Park was less than an hour’s drive away, so off he went.

Photography by David W. Shelton

While visiting Visalia, CA on business this week, I had a day to explore the area. I was told that Sequoia National Park was less than an hour’s drive away, so off I went. Visalia is in the central valley of California which is about as flat as one could imagine. There aren’t many trees in the area (unless they’re citrus).

Needless to say, I was in no way prepared for the world that I was to encounter.My first indicator that the scenery was about to take a dramatic turn was the sudden onset of hills as I drove along highway 198 toward the park. The instructions to get there were pretty simple: “Get on 198 and keep going.”

Once I reached the entry of the park, I opted for the $20 one-time visit fee, which would have allowed me to come back any point in a seven-day period. Oh, if I only had that much time! I was directed to the welcome center, which was about a mile down the road. I didn’t make it that far before I was distracted by one of nature’s spectacles.

I looked out of the corner of my eye and saw a sprawling vista of rocks and a valley to my right, so I spun the car around to check out the scene. To my sheer delight, I found a small path that led to the river below. I grabbed my camera and began the trek. It was a winding, beaten down path that was perfect for a late-morning short hike.

 The riverbed was a bubbling creek of crystal-clear water that trickled by. The rocks were rounded from erosion, but rough enough to walk on without slipping. Since it hadn’t rained in quite some time in the area, the river wasn’t the hazard that it could have been. It was the perfect beginning to an incredible day.

After the hike back up the hill, I was painfully reminded of just how out of shape I really am. I then drove to the welcome center which was staffed with several guides and at least one ranger. They were more than happy to point out the best places to go for nature photography. Of course, their first suggestion was the General Sherman tree, which is the largest and oldest living thing on this planet.

I purchased a map for $3.50 and began the winding drive deeper into the park. Based on my experience at the riverbed, I knew that I’d have to be willing to stop at a moment’s notice to experience the incredible views that changed with every turn. There was “Tunnel Rock,” which is a formation of a large rock under which motorist were at one time able to drive. The road has since been diverted around the rock since larger SUVs and campers would not be able to pass through.

After a solid forty-five minutes of driving, I entered the “Giant Forest” area, where the giant sequoias reside. Nothing, and I do mean nothing, could have prepared me for the sheer magnitude of these incredible trees. They are noted for not only their size, but also their burnt-sienna colored bark.

I stopped to take a shot of one of these majestic trees when a couple from Ohio pulled in right behind me. “Gordon” and his wife were just as awe-struck as I was, and he was more than willing to stand in front of a pair of sequoias so I could get a shot that would show the scale of these grand conifer trees. The trunks were wider than a passing camper.

And these were the “average” ones.

 I continued on toward the parking area for the General Sherman tree. Once I arrived, I was met with another half-mile hike which was, again, downhill. The parking area is at an elevation of 7,000 feet, so the air is very thin, once again a reminder that I’m out of shape! It was a fifteen-minute walk to the General, and my first glimpse was as I entered a clearing about half-way down the path.

The path was paved and had steps so it was very easy to navigate on foot. For those who are handicapped or disabled, there’s another parking area that’s much closer to the tree and is accessible by wheelchair. This is an added benefit, because anyone should be able to see the General.

When I reached the giant sequoia’s base, I ran into “Gordon” again. We were once again awe-struck by the General’s 102-foot circumference and its 40-foot diameter. This tree is wider than my house! At 275 feet, it’s certainly not the tallest of the great trees, but it is unquestionably the largest.

Giant sequoias do not taper the way redwoods do, and maintain most of their mass nearly all the way to the top. The General Sherman tree is said to be heavier than ten blue whales. It’s so large, that if it were a container of water, it would supply an average family’s water need for three and a half years. If it were laid down flat, it would be as long as a full football field.

No, didn’t ask how much firewood it would make.

There were plenty of other giant sequoias in the area, most of which paled by comparison to the General. Just a short walk away, there was a section of a sequoia that had been cut down. It was from a much smaller tree, but it still dwarfed the man who was trying to reach the center spot with his cane.

No matter how much I can describe the magnitude of these trees, it could never compare to the staggering reality of just how large they are. Once I had my fill of taking in the view of the General, I began the half-mile, 24-story hike back up to the car. Did I mention how out of shape I am? The air was so thin that I was panting just a few dozen yards up the hill. I had to stop a few times to catch my breath.

I thought for a moment of taking some of the other many trails in the vicinity, but realized that I was just not physically prepared to endure them. Next purchase: a treadmill. The Congress Trail is a 2 mile path from the Sherman tree which takes visitors past the House and Senate groups of sequoias, as well as past the President, Chief Sequoyah, General Lee and McKinley trees. Alas, I was out of breath, and limited on time.

A word to the wise: if you don’t exercise regularly, you WILL feel it here. I sure did. Once I reached the top, I was exhausted. I downed several gulps of water at the facility near the parking area, and drove to the visitor’s center a couple of miles further down the road.

The Lodgepole visitor’s center has a deli, a snack bar, a gift shop, a small museum and bookstore, and bathrooms with showers for campers. After a hamburger and a few glasses of lemonade, I began the trip back down the mountain.

All along the paths and visitor centers, there are signs galore to be “bear aware.” Bears thrive in the park, and are common especially in meadows. Visitors are urged to keep their food out of sight, even if they leave food in their cars. Boxes should always be kept hidden, and trash receptacles are designed to keep bears out.

Cougars are also common in the mountains, and visitors are warned to never approach or antagonize the big cats. Heck, I know never to antagonize my housecats, so I can’t imagine what an irritated cougar would be like. Through it all, humans and wildlife have coexisted remarkably well in the park.

I took the time to stop by the Sequoia National Park Museum on my way back down since I drove past it on the way to see the General Sherman. In front of the museum is an “average” sized sequoia, the Sentinel. It’s clearly the poster-child for sequoia beauty, and even though its trunk is “just” 29 feet wide at its base, it’s still a big honkin’ bit of wood.

As I discovered early on, big trees aren’t all that Sequoia National Park has to offer. Right across the street from the museum lies Beetle Rock, which offers a view of the sprawling landscape that reveals the lower part of the Sierras in all their glory. I noticed a few small, bright purple flowers that grew right out of the rock. When asked what they were, a ranger said that they were the “pride of the mountain” flowers. I smiled.

My only disappointment of the day was that this view of the Sierras was clouded by the haze from pollution that had blown in from the bay area. Clear views are rare in the present day, and during the summer, the pollution only gets worse. Even still, the view was stunning.

My drive back down to the entrance of the park was met with still more stops as I took a few shots along the way. My final excursion was back down to the river as I took in the sights of the water as it bubbled right by. It was the perfect end to a perfect day among the big trees.

If you go, I recommend staying in a hotel in Visalia since there are literally hundreds of restaurants, and plenty of shopping. There is an airstrip in Visalia, but the best way to get a good airfare is by flying into Fresno, which is about 45 minutes away.

About David W. Shelton

Posts by David W. Shelton are copyright (c)2006, 2007, 2008 by the author. All rights reserved. David W. Shelton is a writer, speaker and activist in Clarksville, and serves on the Clarksville Human Relations Commission. His passions include film and complete equality for all people, and he has worked in various capacities to work toward this goal. He is currently an illustrator, graphic designer, trainer, and is the owner of Imagine Media Solutions. He is an Adobe® Certified Instructor in Photoshop®.

Web Site: http://www.skippingtothepiccolo.com/

Email: dwshelton@charter.net

Sections: Arts and Leisure
Topics: California, General Sherman, Sequoia National Park, Sequoia Tree, Travel, Visalia

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