Author Turner McCullough Jr. outside Sullivans

Sullivan’s Island is home to Fort Moultrie, one of the fortifications which fired on Fort Sumter in the Charleston harbor, thus initiating the Civil War. The island is a small stretch of land with it’s own lighthouse, historic sea captain homes, fortifications and bunkers of Fort Moultrie, but it enjoys a lively commercial district of eateries, guest houses and taverns. Most of these places open for the evening meal during the week and brunch on Sundays. The best of these is “Sullivan’s,” a seafood paradise at 2019 Middle Street, a family friendly dinning place that has been around for over two decades.

I treated myself to the Ft. Moultrie Steamer: steamed Alaskan King crab legs, peel & eat shrimp, corn on the cob, smoked sausage and drawn butter. As I am a New England Clam Chowder fiend, I ordered that as my appetizer. I must confess Sullivan’s won me over with the very first spoonful. A hearty bowl of creamy chowder, saturated with clams, diced potatoes, dill and mouthwatering taste sensations was my reward. I was a goner!

The steamer platter came out steaming! The aromas were divine. Alaskan King Crab legs and claw, a generous serving of steamed shrimp, corn on the cob, smoked sausage and shaved butter melded together to just simply engulf my senses, and they succeeded!! I admit I attacked my steamer with dogged determination. The peep and eat shrimp were first on the list. Dipping the shrimp and the corn in the shaved butter and then biting in was such joy. My friend just sat there watching me indulge in this wondrous offering. I am a Charleston native and this was native seafood favorites prepared to delight and satisfy.

The King Crab was no small offering. Trying to retain a modicum of restraint, I used the shell cracker and worked each leg appendage loose and extracted its prize of crabmeat, dipping it in the shaved butter and guiding it to my waiting tastebuds. It was worth the work of extraction. I tempered this with the smoked sausage which proved to have a unique flavor of its own. I’m told it’s a special Charleston recipe of seasonings, but I will only say, “Go get some, quick!” This was about forty-five minutes of gourmet taste indulgences. I was so engrossed in enjoying my meal, my friend noted that it was the first time he had seen me fail to offer to share my selections. I admit my guilt- it’s true. I didn’t even think to offer a bite. BUT, it was just too intoxicating to consider!

My friend and the restaurant treated me to a tasting of their Key Lime Pie. Grandmother’s recipe, mind you! I will only say this – “There IS NO equal. Hands down, I have never tasted better.” It was the perfect companion to my steamer and I must say, “what a delightful experience it was for my tastebuds. It was simply, Sublime!” I asked to kiss the pastry chef! It’s that good. And there are no pictures of that!

So, if you allow yourself only one Atlantic Coast journey this summer, I urge you to let it be to Charleston. Enjoy the roar of the Atlantic Ocean, the waves breaking on the shore, the pelicans drifting overhead and go to “Sullivan’s” on Sullivan’s Island. Tell them, “Turner send his regards, and asks how’s the pastry chef?” <www.sullivansrestaurant.com> Phone: 843-883-3222.

This unique “dome” shaped home was the only structure to survive a major hurricane.

With that in mind, I’d like to offer some hints on how to make sure you’re invited back to visit next time and how to avoid driving your hosts crazy in the process.

When packing for a trip to visit with friends and family, make sure you pack your own towels and toiletries so that you’re not imposing upon your hosts. Even though they may provide towels and some toiletries, it would keep them from having to stock up or do extra laundry at the end of your stay. I recommend purchasing travel or trial size versions of toiletries so that you don’t have to bring your entire bathroom collection. Don’t forget the little things like soap, toothpaste, and Q-Tips. You should never assume that these will be available at your hosts’ home. They may use brands that you don’t care for or possibly have allergic reactions with.

As my mother often reminds me, it’s better to be safe than sorry. Don’t forget about medications you may need. An empty pill bottle can be used to store multiple medications you may need such as pain reliever, vitamins, or prescriptions as long as you can remember which ones are which. Make sure if they have pets that you’re aware of this and plan for any medication needs if allergic.

It is always appropriate to bring a gift for your hosts as a token of your appreciation. I know that it may seem simple, but it goes a long way. And, if you consider the costs, spending $50-$75 on something nice for your hosts is a small price to pay for a short stay in their home compared to at least $50-$75 per night in a less than reputable motel. A great idea is a gift basket filled with items the hosts’ whole family can enjoy. Some fresh homemade bread, candies, gift certificates for restaurants, bath products, or cookies from a local bakery in your hometown are all excellent starters to add for a gift basket. Try to find gifts from your home area so that you’re sharing something from your home with theirs.

Gifts are a great way to start a visit with your hosts as it shows them that you truly appreciate what they’ve done by opening their home to you. If you’ve never visited their home before, make sure to find something you like about their home and compliment it. It will smooth things over and make a great beginning to the trip.

Once you’ve settled in, make sure you pay attention to the rhythm of the house. Are there children present? If so, what time are they asleep? What time are your hosts’ asleep? When do they shower? Keeping an eye out for these details will allow you to integrate yourself smoothly into their routine without disrupting their daily lives. Make sure you make time for your hosts’ privacy. Following them around the house like a lost puppy is only going to exhaust and frustrate your hosts. Make sure to retreat to your guestroom or a quiet area of the house at least once daily to give them some time to themselves. Read a book or go for a walk even. This will ensure that they have their privacy in their own home.

Manners are an absolute must. If you’re not familiar with the common courtesies – brush up on them before you set foot in your hosts’ home. Always offer to clear the table or do dishes after a meal. This means every meal. Do not venture out on your own to re-organize their pantry or to sort their recyclables. Always ask – “Is there something I can do to help?”

If you have a snack or meal by yourself make sure to clean any dishes or cookware you’ve used as to create no mess for your hosts to pick up after. Do not leave clothes or dirty laundry lying about the house or even the guestroom if staying in one. If you’re staying in a guestroom you should make the bed every day when you wake up. This is not a hotel and there is no maid service. Be aware that everything you do while in their home is creating extra expense for them. Little things like leaving lights on when you leave a room, or taking long showers are causing their utility bills to go up. This isn’t to say you should take cold quick showers or not charge your cell phone, but be aware of your actions.

If you are a smoker and your hosts are not – make sure that you do not smoke in their home (even if they’ve said it is okay to do so). It will smell and they won’t be thrilled about it (whether they mention it or not). Don’t leave cigarette butts on their lawn, driveway, or patio. Make sure to take them inside and discard them in the trash when you’ve finished your smoke.

If you’re planning on visiting others while staying with your hosts, make sure to plan around their schedule. If they’re going to be at work from 9am – 5pm, make plans to visit with other friends and family during that time. Go shopping in that time. Go enjoy local attractions. This will eliminate that potentially awkward “I’ve got guests in my home while I’m at work” mentality from your hosts who won’t have to worry about you being home all day. If your hosts are not working during your trip, you can involve them in activities such as going to see a matinee (your treat of course), or going shopping at local stores together. Your hosts may be providing some meals while you are staying, however you should take them out for at least one meal during your trip so that they don’t feel they have to cook every day.

Remember, at all times, it is their house and therefore their rules. If you’re watching TV with your hosts and it is the series finale of your favorite show and they change the channel ten minutes before the end – don’t say a word. Unless you’re paying the cable bill, it’s not your call on what’s being watched. In general, go with the flow of the household. After a day you should get the hang of how things work in the home.

Make sure you’re not overstaying your welcome. You should have a set day that you’re arriving and leaving at least two weeks prior to your visit so your hosts can make accommodations to their schedules if necessary. Do not stay past this time under circumstances. If necessary to change your itinerary to stay longer – do so at a hotel. This way your hosts don’t have to worry about changing their plans after they’ve made them.

When the stay is over and it’s time to head back to your own home, make sure that you’ve packed everything and left no mess. You should remove linens from the guest bed or couch you’ve stayed on and offer to start them in the laundry for your guests. Of course thank them profusely for letting you stay in their home. As soon as you get home and get unpacked, sit down and write a thank-you letter to them. Make sure to include something personal for each of your hosts if possible. “I had such fun at lunch with Kate even though the waiter got our orders mixed up!” or “Your children are so well-behaved and mannered.” The letter should be sincere and heartfelt and thank them once again for their kindness and for sharing their home. Invite them to visit yours anytime. A good thank-you letter and using your best behavior during your stay will ensure that you’re invited back again.

Land Between the Lakes has a lot to offer, not the least of which a free roaming bison that, topping the scales at a ton (a very solid 2,000 pounds), leave no doubt as to who has the right of way on the roads in the prairie compound.

At up to 2000 pounds, adult bison can have the right of way ...

Discounting its paved road, the Elk and Bison Prairie is a step back in time to an age when these magnificent animals roamed free across the American landscape, the midwestern prairies. Though modern living and urban expansion has come perilously close to decimating native prairie landscape, many groups across the midwest are laboring intensively to save and/or restore these landscapes. It’s enviromentally sound and historically smart.

LBL has created a prairie landscape, encouraging the growth of native grasses and plants, many of which have healing properties. The have also restored two herds of native animals: the elegant elk and the bulging bison. Swift, sleek movement, and lumbering, occasionally thundering beats.

The Prairie visits ideally begins with a stop at the Golden Pond Visitor Center, where the film Restoring the Land for Tomorrow is screened. Little House on the Prairie’s Karen Grassle narrates.

Imagine a landscape 200 years ago when elk and bison numbered in the tens of thousands, leavings swathes of dusty earth in their wake as they migrated from one corner of the prairie to the other. Portions of interstate 24 was once a bison trail.

Native Americans hunted, and used controlled burns of the prairie grass to trigger new growth and new feeding areas for the bison while keeping forestlands at bay. Native Americans killed bison for food, and for furs, with a tradition of killing only what they would use. Early settlers and traders shifted the balance of the prairie and decimated the bison herds, hunting them almost to the point of extinction. As the bison moved, so did the natives who depended on them for survival. In the absence of grazing animals, the forests gradually returned.

In the past century and a half, woodlands came to dominate this region. It wasn’t until 1970 that biologists spotted new prairie growth at land Between the Lakes, and that is where the elk and bison now roam. Controlled burns keep the grassland renewed, and the current herds is hearty, healthy and growing. LBL’s prairie is “landscape in the early stages of renewal.”

Today we travel to the bison prairie, dropping our $5 per car admission into the box, grabbing the token it gives back. A short drive puts visitors at the gate where the token is deposited and a large gate swings slowly open. We are in. And we see … nothing. It’s not for a lack of looking. We are on the late side of midday, and as nature-oriented people we also know the prime time for viewing animals in the wild is early morning and late in the day, when animals emerge to feed and drink at the chosen water sources. Midday, in the heat of the sun, most will seek shelter in wooded, shaded areas. The high grasses are natural but inhibit viewing especially at midday.

Undaunted, we drive in a slow procession of the curious, looking from side to side, allowing our eyes to scan the landscape. Still nothing. Not an elk or bison in sight. Not snakes, rabbits, woodchucks, or even a lot of birds. Just as we were about to admit defeat hope sprang in the distance: a small herd of elk galloping across a meadow in the distance. Magnificent. Leaping through the grasses, up the hill … away from us. It was something.

A bit further, again, a line of cars, stopped. One grandmother poked herself up through the sunroof of the family SUV for a bird’s eye view of three adult elk and beyond, a baby barely toping the height of the spring grass. The elk stopped, and in a unique moment each of the three adults faced a different point of the compass. Surveying. On the “skittish” side, the elk were more apt to bound away from their human observers.

Bird’s eye view ...

Disappointed with our meager viewing, we were almost at the turn to exit the prairie when ahead of us traffic slowed. Stopped.

Suddenly the earth moved. Huge brown arched backs, those scraggly clumps of shredded fur, the lumbering movement of a beast who knows he has the right of way. One. Then another. And another. Meandering from the fields to the road, cows and calves, a bull or two. Muzzling the grasses, swishing their tails to ward off hundred of flies. The reddish-brown calves scurrying and scampering back and forth from grasslands back to nurse at their mothers udders.

We were captivated. We watched in awe as the beasts we’d seen before from a distance of hundreds of yards in another heavily fenced pen near LBL’s The Homeplace walked through the line of cars, alongside them, in touching distance. Not that you are supposed to touch them; they are, after all, wild.

Out came the cameras. Closer came the bison. They were in no hurry, but neither were their human observers. Close-up, we saw ravaging biting flies, hundreds of them swarming on the bison’s hides, and no amount of tail swishing could rid them of the biting pests.

The adult bison looked a bit ragged, winter fur hanging in matted clumps. The horns looking solid and formidable. And while I am sure that it is not wise (or advised by park officials) to get out of your vehicle and step into the herd, our herd of cars was definitely absorbed by the bison.

“Now I know we got our $5’s worth,” said one of my companions who, as a norm, is “not a country boy.” Nonetheless, this overpowering show of nature’s beasts in the wild captivated him, and the steady click click click of his camera was evidence that this was a moment to be remembered.

CO publisher Bill Larson sat at the wheel, camera in hand, staring eyeball to eyeball with one of the bison, who paused long enough to make us wonder if the bison was assessing our edibility. Would we be crunchy and good with … well, you get the idea.

By the time the herd drifted past — a long process — and we left the compound, we knew that it would likely not be our last visit to this amazing grassland.

Along the circuitous prairie roadway, there are information stops, places to pull over, step out and read a bit more about the landscape, the plants, and the restoration of a prairie and its inhabitants.

Visitor’s information defines what you can expect to see in what season, what kinds of grasses grow in this habitat, what birds one might expect to see, and how to react to encounters with the inhabitants.

You can find more information on the internet by logging in to www.lbl.org or by calling 1-800-LBL-7077 for specific directions. Plan on an hour to an hour and a half travel time, and bring a cooler with beverages and water, and a picnic lunch to enjoy at one of the many picnic and rest stops along the way. You might want to consider camping at LBL. See the website for more information.

Here are more BILL LARSON PHOTOS from the Elk and Bison Prairie at Land Between the Lakes.