Written by Christie Crawford
Clarksville, TN – At 68 feet high and 125 feet wide, Cumberland Falls is something to bestow your eyes upon. It is the second-greatest volume of water, only to Niagara Falls, east of the Mississippi River. And to think that if it were not for some dogged efforts by some persistent Kentuckians, it would have been one massive hydroelectric plant and not the beautiful natural spectacle we enjoy today.
Inspired by a recent article and lecture by naturalist and artist Larry Richardson on the origins of our own Cumberland River, my husband and I set out to the southeastern part of Kentucky to visit Cumberland Falls State Park. The drive to the park across western Kentucky crosses through lush farmlands and rural towns until the topography changes, hills and hollers emerging with evergreens and limestone ridges into rugged terrain.
The signs of a logging and coal past can still be seen today, with timbered areas now (designated in the 1970s) the area known as the Daniel Boone National Forest. The forest is adjacent to the falls. In the 1800’s sawmills were present with logs sent downstream to points west such as Nashville, Louisville and Frankfort. Later, as the railroad expanded into the area, charcoal was developed to fuel the engines. In nearby Burnside, Clorox-owned Kingsford Charcoal still operates a processing facility that has been open since 1957.
Cumberland Falls State Park was discovered by pioneers as far back as the 17th century. Explorer, Thomas Walker had the first written account of the area and is credited with naming the falls after the Duke of Cumberland. But before that, the falls were considered sacred and a spiritual gateway by the Cherokee, Shawnee, Chickasaw, and Creek indigenous people. Land grants were issued in 1826 to two American Revolution soldiers who established a dwelling, and it passed hands several times including during the Civil War where an established cabin onsite served as a hospital for injured soldiers. Later, it became a popular resort, and its first hotel was established in 1875.
The wooden log inn ran until 1902 when it was called the Brunson Inn after the present owner. When the state established the park in 1931 it was renamed the Moonbow Inn until it was destroyed in a fire. Getting to Cumberland Falls at this time was quite a feat. The first stage of the journey was by rail to Parkers Lake, 12 miles from the falls. From there it was by mule-drawn wagons called “jolts”.
As you stroll the impressive overlook and waterside trail, you will note a stone and brass plaque dedicated to T. Coleman DuPont. T. Coleman was a Kentucky native from Louisville, and president and heir to the DuPont multinational chemical company. When Brunson sold his inn to the Cumberland River Power company, it was for the intention to build a dam above the falls and create a tunnel, harnessing the water to produce hydroelectricity. T. Coleman, in order to ensure its preservation, purchased the land, and in 1932, his widow donated the area to the state of Kentucky as a state park.
The remaining acreage owned by the power company was conveyed to the state of Kentucky as a park after much persuasion and heated debate by conservationist Robert A Blair from nearby Corbin, known as “Mr. Cumberland Falls” and John Y. Brown,Sr., Kentucky Congressman and Speaker of the House of Representatives. Both were able to overturn the governor’s decision and a year later to the day, the park was formed.
When the park was dedicated, much of the infrastructure was created by the CCC or Civilian Conservation Corp including the Gatliff Bridge which crosses the falls, park facilities, fire tower and the stone DuPont Lodge, named in honor of T Coleman’s efforts.
Today, the park is one of the most visited and popular Kentucky State parks, with one million visitors annually, ample campgrounds, and 17 miles of hiking trails. Summer kayaking and canoeing are part of the attractions as well, as is the sighting of the “moonbow” which is a white rainbow that appears coinciding with a full moon. Cumberland Falls has recently been voted as “The Best Long Weekend Destination “ by Kentucky Living magazine.
For an experience outside the park, I would recommend the Wrigley Taproom in Corbin with its James Beard fellow chef. A wide array of bourbon, draft beers, crafted cocktails pairing with regional farm-to table and seasonal cuisine make it a good diversion from the typical country buffet offered at DuPont Lodge.
Unlike Niagara, Cumberland Falls does not have the history of suicide jumps, or daredevil jumps in barrels. But it does have a legacy of crazy kayak rides, one that was performed by a professional kayaker in 2016. The kayaker Nick Troutman came out unscathed but did have to face a $200 trespassing fine and community service hours consisting of teaching free kayaking lessons. Also in 2023, an unidentified kayaker went over the falls with minimal injuries. The danger lies in that even if you survive the impact of hitting the bottom of the falls there are large boulders and a strong current you will face.
Kentucky, until recently, has not made parks a budget priority, unlike its neighbor, Tennessee. Under Governor Beshear’s administration, that seems to have changed with $150 million to be spent on the renovation of the park system. Cumberland Falls, particularly DuPont Lodge, which has not seen a face-lift in many years, will be receiving $10 million in funding beginning in September of this year.
If you have any curiosity about magnificent waterfalls, exploring the originating paths of the Cumberland River, or experiencing a lunar rainbow, then Cumberland Falls State Park should be on your travel list.
