Written by Matt Schorr
Clarksville, TN – Motorcycles may pair with pizza almost as well as beer. They’re loud. They’re bold. They cleanse the palate and balance the rich flavors of cheese and assorted toppings. Miller or Yamaha. Michelob or Honda. Craft brews or Harley Davidson. Take your pick.
The first thing about Busted Knuckle Pizza that hits you – yes, I’m aware of the irony in those words – is the motorcycles. As it shares a lot with Appleton Harley Davidson on Highway 41A, you’ll cruise past several idle hogs while navigating to a parking space.
Unrealized horsepower just itching to unite with the roadways. Adventure. Rebellion. Freedom. Already, the tone is set.
Owner Bill Johnson embraces this resonance in every respect. Busted Knuckle’s atmosphere complements its surroundings with an interior design pulled straight from grindhouse silver screen fare like Easy Rider or The Wild Angels. (Not to mention Pee-Wee’s Big Adventure.) Expect barrel top tables, motorcycle memorabilia, and the warm, smoky aroma of mozzarella slowly melting in a massive, wood-fired, brick oven the size of a small car.
The smell envelops you, wrapping you up completely in a warm, savory seasoned embrace. It fills your nostrils, your mind, everything.
That delicious scent is the second thing that hits you, making for a one-two punch combination that solidifies Busted Knuckle’s impression as both one-of-a-kind and distinctly American.
Because honestly, what screams Americana more than motorcycles, beer, and pizza?
(Don’t look for Guinness or Heineken, by the way. Only domestic or craft brews grace these barrel top tables.)
Where cuisine is concerned, a particular standout at Busted Knuckle is the crust. Whether a traditional pizza pie, a calzone, or a Griffin’s Knuckle Duster (i.e. the ultimate cheese bread), the establishment’s crust is both sweet and savory, and all at once crispy and chewy. It has a warm, buttery flavor, complemented by herbs and seasonings that I suspect Bill has no intention of revealing.
Trade secret. Confidential information. If they told you, they’d have to… You get the picture.
Another culinary standout is the cheese, a blend of mozzarella and other cheeses – mild and creamy, with slightly tangy notes – house-made garlic oil, a touch of basil, and finished with their official Knuckle Dust.
And that’s just the base. I haven’t even mentioned the toppings yet.
Busted Knuckle offers everything you’d expect – pepperoni, sausage, onion, mushrooms – along with a few you won’t find many other places, like roasted red peppers and caramelized onions.
I have to give Bill and his crew some extra kudos for the roasted red peppers. Most pizzerias offer only green peppers. These are fine, of course. They’re sharp and earthy, and they make a fine complement to any pizza pie. But red peppers – and in particular, roasted red peppers – are sweet and smoky, with a tender, mellow flavor and a slightly charred hint.
I once debated with someone over the distinct difference between green peppers and red ones. He argued there was no fundamental difference, that any perceived difference was just in the eye of the beholder. Or, if you will, the consumer.
I postulated he was clinically insane with a palate like a used tire.
Roasted red peppers are easily distinguishable from green peppers, as well as yellow or orange. As the ripest possible version of bell pepper, red is unmistakably sweet. Tangy. Crisp. Juicy. To sum up, they’re amazing. And roasting them only makes them better.
Then, there are the caramelized onions. Again, most pizzerias offer onions, but only in diced or sliced form, never specially prepared beforehand.
These are fine, but once more, Busted Knuckle is unsatisfied with “fine.” Busted Knuckle wants exceptional. And, again, they succeed.
Bill Johnson says pizza was always his favorite food, and while cooking as a hobby throughout his life, he often experimented with different ingredients and recipes. That history and passion shine through on every dish, every gooey, cheesy, crispy, crusted dish.
For me, that came in the form of a fresh-baked calzone with roasted red peppers, caramelized onions, and pineapples. Sure, such a combination is a little unorthodox. Many scoff at the notion of any pizza or calzone without, at least, pepperoni. Others can’t fathom one without sausage.
And, of course, plenty of folks can’t begin to understand the appeal of pineapples on pizza.
Allow me to elaborate. Unlike the aforementioned meats, pineapple won’t leave your stomach feeling heavy. Pineapple won’t run roughshod through your bowels and punish you later on a porcelain throne.
And best of all, pineapple brings a tangy sweetness to pizza – and calzones – like no other ingredient ever will.But they have to be prepared, right. They can’t be overcooked, blackened, or reduced to much, nor can they be under-cooked and overly crisp. There’s a very specific middle ground they need in order to be perfect.
And Busted Knuckle found that middle ground.
Located at 2501 Highway 41-A Bypass, Suite C, in Clarksville, this is one pizzeria that has to be experienced. The sights. The smells. The tastes. The whole pizza pie.
